Franziska and Rainer Ulm plus Enza a duck are more than ¾ of the way through their journey by canoe from Ulm in southern Germany to Hamburg in the north. The direct route would be considered a long way by canoe, but they have taken a much longer route down the Danube through Austria, Hungary, Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria and Romania to the Black Sea. Then a long coastal passage down the west side of the Black Sea to Istanbul where they entered the  Mediterranean and followed the coast and Turkish islands down as far as Turgutreis where they turned westwards towards Greece through the Greek islands.  They passed through the Corinth Canal (which was closed to traffic for the duration of their transit) and into the Adriatic Sea, then up the Albanian Coast and across to Italy then south around the southern tip of Italy and up the west coast through the Strait of Messina and then the entire length of the Mediterranean coast of Italy, France and Spain.  With a stop at Gibraltar they carried on through the Strait and up the coast of Andalucia and finally to the Algarve which they have canoed the length of during the last month.
 
Beginning their journey on May 1st 2000 they are now at Sagres and with more than 10,000 kilometers behind them they are preparing to set off up the Atlantic coast of Portugal with 3000 kilometers of paddling and sailing in front of them to their final destination in Hamburg arriving sometime in 2005.
 
I met Rainer and Franziska recently when they stayed overnight at Vilamoura Marina, where in recognition of their wonderful feat of endurance and courage they were given a free berth for their canoes. They have been given a free berth in every Marina that they have ever stayed in throughout their journey.  They have asked me to thank Vilamoura Marina for their kindness and also Paula of Sea Runner Water Activities for lending them a boat to sleep on.
 
Whilst very occasionally thanks to the generosity of supporters they have slept ashore in a bed, most of the time they have slept in their tent on a very thin camping mattress. Enza the duck always sleeps in one of the canoes.
 
The Enza that I met at Vilamoura is in fact the second Enza, the first was stolen and eaten by an Italian fisherman.  This was a dreadful crime and very upsetting, Enza was immediately replaced with a new 10-day-old duck.  The new Enza is completely tame and is devoted to them. She travels in one of three ways, sometimes as a passenger sitting on one of the canoes, sometimes swimming alongside and often flying above them, she is truly a most remarkable and very friendly duck.  As Rainer is German and Franziska is Austrian their common language is German. Whilst Enza I am told understands a little German she is inclined to be a little disobedient sometimes.
 
In addition to paddle power these two intrepid canoeists also have sails for their canoes, they have calculated that so far they have sailed for only 15% of the total mileage so far.  Under sail power their canoes become extremely unstable and so far they have both capsized once, Rainer capsized in the Black Sea and Franziska off Gibraltar.  Their canoes are unsinkable but righting them and then bailing them out is not an easy task.  I asked them both if they had often been frightened they replied that they had often been frightened at sea and also by the Police in Rumania and Bulgaria where they often do not wear uniforms and are extremely threatening with their firearms.
 
The canoes are kayaks made by a company called Klepper.  They were designed in 1907 and in 1956 Dr Lindeman used one to cross the Atlantic in 71 days.  They are made of a skeleton of ash, below the water line they are covered with rubber and above the water line with impregnated cotton. Inside they have a ring of buoyant material to stop them from sinking.  Rainer and Franziska carry their baggage both inside and on top of their canoes, all their baggage is sealed in waterproof containers made by a company called Ortlieb GMBH. Each canoe weighs 100 kilos when loaded.
 
They have a total of 12 sponsors who have provided all their equipment and some of their expenses.  They are living very frugally and so far have spent an average of 125 euros per month for their food and other expenses. 
 
When I asked them why they were doing this extraordinary journey they replied that it was because no one else had done it before and that they hoped to write a book about their trip soon after the arrival in Hamburg. Rainer is aged 39 and used to work for a company who make ABS systems; Franziska is aged 32 and used to work for a publisher. Despite their very simple diet and constant exposure to the elements they are both looking very healthy.  They have both got health insurance to cover them for medical assistance during their journey.
 
Rainer and Franziska have a very good web site with a map, photographs and detailed description of their adventures. It is updated regularly and I for one will be looking at it on a regular basis to keep in touch with their progress towards Hamburg, it is www.ulm-outdoor.de which I have put as a link under the heading of 'An incredible journey' on the home page of this web site.
 
I have not met a nicer or more worthwhile couple in a long time, I wish them a safe and enjoyable rest of their journey, I shall follow their progress with interest and hope to have the privilege of meeting them again one day.